Tsunami Shallow-Water Cross-Section (2D)

This 2D side-on cross-section follows a single tsunami wave as it crosses an ocean profile — deep water, an optional continental shelf, and a sloped beach — tracking how its speed and height change purely as a function of local depth. Wave speed obeys the shallow-water relation c = √(g·h); height grows via Green's Law as the wave shoals; and once the height-to-depth ratio crosses the breaker index, the wave collapses into a bore and a surf-similarity (Iribarren-number) estimate gives its final runup height on the beach. Unlike a full grid-based numerical wave solve, this model tracks one wavefront analytically along a single transect, making the physics driving each stage of a tsunami's approach easy to isolate and adjust.