🧪 Wave Dispersion Surf Simulator

This simulator models a surfer as a physical body sliding on a real traveling ocean swell rather than an animated loop. Wave period and water depth feed the full linear dispersion relation, solved numerically for wavenumber, so wavelength and phase speed respond exactly as a real deep-water or shallow-water wave would as depth changes. The board's horizontal motion is derived from the true slope of that wave surface at every instant — the component of gravity along the local tangent — plus drag, with the rider's trim input adjusting the effective face angle. Whether you're in the pocket, pearling ahead of the wave, or dropped behind it is computed from the board's relative velocity against the wave's own moving reference frame, so losing the wave is a genuine outcome of the physics, not a scripted cutscene.