Ocean Waves: Wind Spectrum & Shoaling (2D)

This 2D companion rebuilds ocean waves from first principles instead of orbiting a decorative shader surface: a wind-shaped Pierson-Moskowitz-style spectrum of five real sinusoids is summed across a cross-section that shoals from 50 m of open water to a shore depth you control, each component's wavenumber solved through the exact dispersion relation at every point so that shoaling, wave steepening and breaking all emerge from energy-flux conservation rather than being scripted, while a floating buoy traces the circular-to-elliptical orbit real linear wave theory predicts as the water shallows.