Presets
Playback
Apparatus
Model checks
The science
What is modelled
An ocean of depth H holds a light upper layer of thickness h1 above a denser lower layer. A wave on the interface between them is an internal wave: the density jump is small, so gravity is effectively reduced and the wave is slow and large. With a rigid lid at the top, the layers move in opposite directions and the sea surface stays almost flat.
Equations
- Dispersion relation
ω² = (ρ2 − ρ1) g k / (ρ1 coth(k h1) + ρ2 coth(k h2)), with k = 2π/wavelength. - Long-wave limit
c0 = √(g Δρ / (ρ1/h1 + ρ2/h2)), close to √(g′ h1 h2 / H) with reduced gravity g′ = g Δρ / ρ. - Layer currents from potential flow:
u1 = −ω a cosh k(h1 − z) / sinh k h1and the matching expression below. - Energy per unit area: kinetic equals potential,
g Δρ a² / 4each.
Checks run in the page
- Finite-difference eigenvalue solution on a smooth density step against the formula.
- Long-wave limit against the shallow-water formula.
- Equal and opposite volume flux in the two layers.
- Kinetic energy equals potential energy.
Honest simplifications
The model is linear, with a rigid lid, no rotation, no mean current, no mixing and a sharp interface. Real internal waves steepen, break and shed solitary packets, and the Earth's rotation changes long waves. The drawing compresses the horizontal scale and exaggerates time.
What to try
- Press Strong stratification and see a larger density jump speed the wave up.
- Press Long wave limit and watch the phase and group speed meet the dashed c0 line.
- Shorten the wavelength and see the group speed fall below the phase speed.